Split Tweety
I'd been eyeing the Split 280 kit at Aeromicro for
ages. It had two big points going for it: it's made entirely of
EPP foam, so it's very rugged (its nickname turns out to be "Boink-Zoom"), and
it's a very easy build, with the wing and fuselage already made.
Also it's small (29" wingspan) and relatively inexpensive.
But I was hesitant. It's billed as being basically a pylon racer:
go fast, turn left (or right). I like planes that are fully
aerobatic, and I want to get better at aerobatics, with a plane that's
not so delicate that I have to worry about it all the time (like I do
with the Hornet, or the Edge,
or the Triangle). And I was really
sick of building planes, really easy ones. While I was learning
to fly I had to sacrifice all my spare time to building and repairing
planes, and I was sick of it.
Dave saw me eyeing the Split, though, and it got him to thinking.
He has no such hesitation about building planes; he's so obsessed that
he needs a new plane to work on all the time. So he took the
plunge and bought the kit.
Building
He couldn't just throw it together as specified in the kit, of
course. The supplied tail surfaces and ailerons are
coroplast (for ruggedness), and Dave loathes coroplast (because it's
heavy), so he built a balsa horizontal and vertical stabilizer, and
depron foam control surfaces (including rudder, though the kit is
designed to be aileron/elevator only). The EPP wing is extremely
flexy, so he put a thin carbon fiber spar through the bottom of the
wing, and another along the fuselage. But the biggest change he
made, as a born-again brushless outrunner motor convert, was to replace
the supplied 280 direct drive motor with a Tweety brushless
outrunner (so it's not a Split 280 any more, it's a Split
Tweety). Naturally, it took him a while to get it all together,
compared with the couple-hour predicted building time for the stock kit.
The
trickiest point was getting anything to stick to the EPP.
This EPP, unlike the lighter kind used in planes like the Weasel and PCW, resists
most glues. Shoe Goo won't stick to it at all. Neither will
packing tape, and even Probond doesn't do too well. This left a
dilemma about how to hinge the ailerons. Dave eventually decided
to try GWS glue on the EPP, then tape stuck to the GWS glue. This
seems to work -- so far.
Dave couldn't stop talking about the Split after his first outing with
it. It was wonderful, it was the best plane he had ever flown, it
was
everything he'd been looking for. I finally gave up and got one
of my own. I put in a thicker spar than he had (a CF tube rather
than just a thin rod), which added a few grams but made my wing quite a
bit stiffer than his (we'd both noticed that his wing bends noticably
under load while flying). I didn't put in a fuselage
stiffener. I ran my rudder control rod along the bottom of the
fuselage, next to the elevator rod, and I ran a wire from my rudder
down through the middle of the elevator rather than split the elevator
and run the rudder between the two elevator halves. (I don't
recommend this, however; it took me forever to get the rudder linkage
working right, whereas it's really not that hard to join two pieces of
elevator with a u-bent wire. If I have to do any further work on
the tail surfaces, I'll probably rebuild them that way.) My
ailerons are a bit bigger than Dave's (patterned after the Hornet's
because I had a couple extra Hornet ailerons sitting around, and
because I figure a little more wing surface never hurt anyone) and I
put some markings on the bottom because with Dave's I had a really hard
time telling when it was inverted. (I still have trouble with
mine, since the red stripes show through the yellow depron ailerons,
but it's better than nothing.)
The only hard thing about the build, really, is routing the servo
cables through the fuselage and wing to the receivers (which we both
put under the canopy -- not where the instructions say to put it, but
things are pretty cramped under the fuselage). I originally
wanted to build my Split with the supplied 280 motor, just to see how
it worked, then upgrade to a Tweety or other brushless later. But
my Tweety arrived on Friday instead of Monday when I expected it, and
routing the wire from the speed controller to the receiver turned out
to be such a hassle that I decided I didn't want to do it any more
times than necessary. So I installed the Tweety and still can't
comment on how well it flies with the stock engine. Probably
okay, though I can't imagine it would be very fast or anywhere near as
aerobatic.
Flying
Dave
is right. This plane flies great, and it's as aerobatic as
anything else I've flown. It flies inverted just as well as it
flies rightside up, it rolls, loops inside and outside, and spins just
great. It's currently my favorite plane.
The Tweety motor was amazing, too: with a 2-cell lithium pack, it's
sedate yet has plenty of juice to power the plane; with a 3-cell and a
slightly smaller prop, it turns into a rocket motor which can take the
plane straight up, or do torque rolls or lomcevaks (neither Dave nor I
know how to do this yet, but we've semi-accidentally managed it a few
times, enough to see that the plane is capable even if the pilots
aren't). It can probably hover, too, but we're still working on
learning how. My current goal is a flat spin, which I haven't
managed in any plane, but the Split has come much closer to it than any
of the others. (I'm not sure why the Hornet won't flat spin;
maybe not enough rudder, or maybe the drag of those big thick wings
fights a flat spin.)
Crashing
And yeah,
boink-zoom is right. A few hard landings didn't hurt
the plane, though eventually the bits around the nose on either side of
the motor did break off. The instructions (written in charmingly
poor English -- the plane is Czech) suggest dogfighting two Splits,
which sounds like a fine idea that we'll have to try some time when
we're not too busy having fun doing aerobatics and learning to hover.
It does break props a lot, though. The plane is tough, but the
prop is the lowest thing on it and since there are no wheels, even a
gentle landing can bend or break the prop if it happens to be vertical
at the wrong time. I added a set of wheels, which helps quite a
bit.
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