Shallow Thoughts : : hardware

GetSET Robotics workshop -- now, with cheap motor shields

Last summer I led a one day robotics workshop for high school girls as part of the Society of Women Engineers' GetSET summer camp. I'm giving it again this year, on June 26. We're still lining up volunteers to help teach the workshop, and I'd love help from bay area women -- you don't have to be a robotics or programming expert, just willing to learn and play.

The workshop is based around the Arduino open-source microcontroller: we hook up Arduinos, then wire up LEDs, buzzers and other parts on breadboards and make them do things.

It's a programming workshop as well as a hardware one: most of the girls had a workshop the previous summer on Ruby programming, but that's their only exposure to programming. So it's a challenge to see how much we can cover in one day -- and a testament to the girls that they do so well.

Last year we spent the morning covering wiring Arduinos to the basics like breadboards, LEDs, pushbuttons and potentiometers. Then in the afternoon, teams worked on projects -- some of them wired together lots of colored LEDs, some worked with making sounds with buzzers, and one team built a robotic truck. I was hoping to be able to show them more motorized projects, and I'd brought several toy cars and trucks scavenged from thrift shops (radio controlled toys that had lost their radio controller).

But the wiring needed for the H-bridge to control the motor is complex, and the team that chose the truck project had their hands full getting the truck running by the end of the day -- forget about adding any bells and whistles. I wanted to make that easier.

So for this year, with a little more time to prepare, I'm wiring up some Arduino motor shields.

Shields are devices that stack on top of an Arduino. You can do all the difficult wiring beforehand, and just plug in the shield when you're ready to use it. The down side is that shields can be expensive -- motor shields typically cost around $25. That's okay if you're buying one, but if you're trying to outfit a classroom, that can add up pretty quickly.

But I found a way of building motor shields cheaply. The H-bridge chip I'm using, the SN754410, is $1.75 at Jameco if you buy 5 or more. Jameco also carries a proto-shield PC board ($4.25 in quantity) and stacking headers ($1.59). So that's only $7.59 per shield, plus shipping, not counting a few sundries like battery connectors that I'd already bought for last year's class.

Then I had to wire up the shields. I was all fired up about having a good excuse to use wire-wrap instead of soldering. But then I realized that tiny 30-gauge wire-wrap wire probably wasn't adequate for the current going to the motors. So I soldered wires for the motors, the power lines from the battery connector to the H-bridge chip, and from the battery connector to the Arduino's Vin. Then I wire-wrapped everything else.

The end result looks nice and clean from the top (please avert your eyes from my messy soldering underneath). There's no scary rats-nest of wires, like with the breadboards I used last year, and there's plenty of empty space on the board to velcro a battery or attach sensors like an ultrasonic rangefinder. I think this will work well and will encourage the girls to get some little cars zipping around the computer room.

I'm looking forward to setting up some simple projects I can combine with the cars -- light sensors, sonar or IR rangefinders, other ideas? I'd love suggestions from anybody, and I'd especially love to line up some volunteers (women only for the day of the workshop, please). Workshop day -- June 26 -- mostly means walking around checking on how the girls are doing, cheering them on, helping them debug problems by checking their wiring and looking over their programs (very simple code -- remember, they've never seen C code before).

And if anybody (male or female) wants to get together before the workshop and play with Arduinos, help me solder the rest of the shields, and brainstorm fun projects for the girls, please drop me a line!

The rough outline, handouts and wiring diagrams so far are at my Robots and Sensors Workshop page.

Telling your Raspberry Pi that your terminal is bigger than 24 lines

When I'm working with an embedded Linux box -- a plug computer, or most recently with a Raspberry Pi -- I usually use GNU screen as my terminal program. screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200 connects to the appropriate USB serial port at the appropriate speed, and then you can log in just as if you were using telnet or ssh.

With one exception: the window size. Typically everything is fine until you use an editor, like vim. Once you fire up an editor, it assumes your terminal window is only 24 lines high, regardless of its actual size. And even after you exit the editor, somehow your window will have been changed so that it scrolls at the 24th line, leaving the bottom of the window empty.

Tracking down why it happens took some hunting. Tthere are lots of different places the screen size can be set. Libraries like curses can ask the terminal its size (but apparently most programs don't). There's a size built into most terminfo entries (specified by the TERM environment variable) -- but it's not clear that gets used very much any more. There are environment variables LINES and COLUMNS, and a lot of programs read those; but they're often unset, and even if they are set, you can't trust them. And setting any of these didn't help -- I could change TERM and LINES and COLUMNS all I wanted, but as soon as I ran vim the terminal would revert to that scrolling-at-24-lines behavior.

In the end it turned out the important setting was the tty setting. You can get a summary of what the tty driver thinks its size is:

% stty size
32 80

But to set it, you use rows and columns rather than size. I discovered I could type stty rows 32 (or whatever my current terminal size was), and then I could run vim and it would stay at 32 rather than reverting to 24. So that was the important setting vim was following.

The basic problem was that screen, over a serial line, doesn't have a protocol for passing the terminal's size information, the way a remote login program like ssh, rsh or telnet does. So how could I get my terminal size set appropriately on login?

Auto-detecting terminal size

There's one program that will do it for you, which I remembered from the olden days of Unix, back before programs like telnet had this nice size-setting built in. It's called resize, and on Debian, it turned out to be part of the xterm package.

That's actually okay on my current Raspberry Pi, since I have X libraries installed in case I ever want to hook up a monitor. But in general, a little embedded Linux box shouldn't need X, so I wasn't very satisfied with this solution. I wanted something with no X dependencies. Could I do the same thing in Python?

How it works

Well, as I mentioned, there are ways of getting the size of the actual terminal window, by printing an escape sequence and parsing the result.

But finding the escape sequence was trickier than I expected. It isn't written about very much. I ended up running script and capturing the output that resize sent, which seemed a little crazy: '\e[7\e[r\e[999;999H\e[6n' (where \e means the escape character). Holy cow! What are all those 999s?

Apparently what's going on is that there isn't any sequence to ask xterm (or other terminal programs) "What's your size?" But there is a sequence to ask, "Where is the cursor on the screen right now?"

So what you do is send a sequence telling it to go to row 999 and column 999; and then another sequence asking "Where are you really?" Then read the answer: it's the window size.

(Note: if we ever get monitors big enough for 1000x1000 terminals, this will fail. I'm not too worried.)

Reading the answer

Okay, great, we've asked the terminal where it is, and it responds. How do we read the answer? That was actually the trickiest part.

First, you have to write to /dev/tty, not just stdout.

Second, you need the output to be available for your program to read, not just echo in the terminal for the user to see. Setting the tty to noncanonical mode does that.

Third, you can't just do a normal blocking read of stdin -- it'll never return. Instead, put stdin into non-blocking mode and use select() to see when there's something available to read.

And of course, you have to make sure you reset the terminal back to normal canonical line-buffered mode when you're done, whether or not your read succeeds.

Once you do all that, you can read the output, which will look something like "\e[32;80R". The two numbers, of course, are the lines and columns values you want; ignore the rest.

stty in python

Oh, yes, and one other thing: once you've read the terminal size, how do you set the stty size appropriately? You can't just run system('stty rows %d' % (rows) seems like it should work, but it doesn't, probably because it's using stdout instead of /dev/tty. But I did find one way to do it, the enigmatic:

fcntl.ioctl(fd, termios.TIOCSWINSZ,
            struct.pack("HHHH", rows, cols, 0, 0))

Here it all is in one script, which you can install on your Raspberry Pi (or other embedded Linux box) and run from .bash_profile:
termsize: set stty size to the size of the current terminal window.

Fixing the Indiglo and beeper on a Timex Expedition watch

For half a year now my Timex watch (yes, I'm one of those old fogeys who actually wears a watch) hasn't had a light. And it doesn't beep when I use the stopwatch. I don't care so much about the beep, but the light was handy.

I replaced the battery at some point, and apparently got something wrong when I put it back together. I've been meaning to go back in and figure out what I got wrong, but life intervened, so I've been putting up with it for way too long, until now.

I felt a bit better about having messed up when some web searching showed that many, many people have this exact same problem. Some of the web pages I found had succestions that got the beeper working again; but the light still didn't work.

Curiously, it worked fine with the watch disassembled: the watch's brains and battery are all in one self-contained module, and if you push the tiny button in the front, the light comes on. It's just that the big button in the front didn't push the tiny button on the watch module.

Maybe there was some tiny piece that went sproinging off to freedom the first time I opened the watch. No matter; if so, it's long gone now. But you know what? Several pieces of masking tape stacked up over the inner button worked fine -- and now my Indiglo light works again.

A few other tips for Timex fixers, some of which aren't obvious from the how-to sites:

• The "scratches" on my crystal -- so bad I'd been thinking it was time to buy a new watch -- were actually melamine (or some such material) that had rubbed off from the artists' table I use as a desk. It cleaned off nicely with alcohol.
• I used a needle to open the spring clip over the battery.
• Rotating the back cover 180° was probably what fixed the beeper.
• You may or may not need to reset the watch by shorting the two contacts as suggested on the label inside the watch. If you see an error code or the watch doesn't work right, try shorting the contacts.

Running Raspberry Pi off a battery

In my post about Controlling a toy car with a Raspberry Pi, I skipped over one important detail: the battery. How do you power the RPi while it's driving around the room?

Most RPi sites warn that you shouldn't use the Pi with a power supply drawing less than an amp. I suspect that's overstated, and it probably doesn't draw more than half of that most of the time; but add the draw of two motors and we're talking a fairly beefy battery, not a couple of AAs or a 9V.

Luckily, as an R/C plane pilot, I have a fridge full of small 2- and 3-cell lithium-polymer batteries (and a li-po charger to go with them). The problem is: the Pi is rather picky about its input voltage. It wants 5V and nothing else. A 2-cell li-po is 7.4V. So I needed some sort of voltage regulator.

It's easy enough to get a simple 5V voltage regulator (pictured at right) -- 30c at Jameco, not much more locally. But they're apparently fairly inefficient, and need a heat sink for high current loads. So I decided to blow the big bucks ($15) for a 5V step-down power converter (left) that claims to be 94% efficient with no need for a heat sink.

Unlike most of Adafruit's products, this one comes with no tutorials and no hints as to pinouts, but after a little searching, I determined that the pins worked the same way as the cheap voltage regulators. With the red logo facing you, the left pin (your left) is input power from the battery; middle is ground (connect this to the battery's ground which is shared with the Pi's ground); the right pin is the regulated 5V output, which goes to pin 2 on the Pi's GPIO connector.

I was able to run both the RPi and the motor drive circuit off the same 7.4 volt 2-cell li-po battery (which almost certainly wouldn't work with 4 AAs, though it might work with 8). A 500 mAh battery seems to be plenty to drive the RPi and the car, though I don't know how long the battery life will be. I'll probably be using 610 mAh batteries for most of my testing, since I have a collection of them for the aerial combat planes.

Here's a wiring diagram made with Fritzing showing how to hook up the battery to power a RPi. If you're driving motors, you can run a line from the battery's + terminal (the left pin of the voltage regulator) as your motor voltage source, and use the right pin as your 5V logic source for whatever motor controller chip you're using.

Driving two DC motors with a Raspberry Pi

In my previous article about pulse-width modulation on Raspberry Pi, I mentioned that the reason I wanted PWM on several pins at once was to drive several motors, for a robotic car.

But there's more to driving motors than just PWM. The GPIO output pins of a Pi don't have either enough current or enough voltage to drive a motor. So you need to use a separate power supply to drive the motors, and do some sort of switching -- at minimum, a transistor or relay for each motor.

There are lots of motor driver chips. For Arduinos, "motor shields", and such things are starting to become available for the Pi as well. But motor shields are expensive, usually more than the Pi costs itself. If you're trying to outfit a robotics class, or to help low-income students build robots, it's not a great solution.

When I struggled with this problem for the Arduino, the solution I eventually hit on was a SN754410 H-bridge chip. For under $2, you get bidirectional control of two DC motors. For each motor, you send input to the chip via a PWM line and two directional control lines.

The only problem is the snarl of wiring. One PWM and two direction lines per motor is six wires, plus power for the chip's logic side, power for the motors, and ground, and the three pins for a serial cable, and you're talking a lot of wires to plug in. Although this is all easy in comcept, it's also easy to get a wire plugged in one spot over on the breadboard from where it ought to be, and then nothing works.

I spent too much time making tables of what should get plugged into where. I ended up with a table like this:

Pi connector pin	GPIO (BCM)	SN754410 pin
Pi 2	5V power	Breadboard bottom V+ row
Pi 18	24	1 (motor 1 PWM)
Pi 15	22	1 (motor 0 PWM)
Pi 24	8 (SPI CE0)	4 (motor 1 direc 0)
Pi 26	7 (SPI CE1)	14 (motor 1 direc 1)
Pi 25	Gnd	Breadboard both grounds
Pi 19	10 (MOS1)	3 (motor 0 direc 0)
Pi 21	9 (MOS0)	13 (motor 0 direc 1)
motor 0		5, 11
motor 1		6, 12

... though, as you'll see, some of those pin assignments ended up getting changed later.

One more thing: I found that I had to connect the chip's logic V+ (pin 2 on the SN754410) to the 5v pin on the RPi, not the 3.3V pin. The SN754410 is okay with 3.3V logic signals, but it seems to need a full 5V of power.

Programming it

The software control is a little trickier than it ought to be, too, because of the 2-wire control lines on each motor. With both lines high or both lines low, nothing moves. (Some motor driver chips distinguish between those two states: e.g. both low might be a brake, while both high lets the motor freewheel; but I haven't seen anything indicating the SN754410 makes any distinction.) Then set one line high, the other low, and the motor spins one way; reverse the lines, and the motor spins the other way. Assuming, of course, the PWM line is sending a signal.

Of course, you need RPI.GPIO version 0.5.2a or later to do any of this PWM control. Get it via pip install --upgrade RPi.GPIO -- the RPI.GPIO in Raspbian mis-reports its version and is really 0.5.1a.

Simple enough in concept. Okay, now try explaining that to beginning programmers. No, thanks! So I wrote a PiMotor class in Python that takes care of all those details. Initialize it with the pins you want to use, then use calls like set_speed(s) and stop(). It's on GitHub at pimotors.py.

I put the H-bridge chip on a breadboard, wired up all the lines to the Pi and a lithium-polymer airplane battery, and (after several hours of head-banging while I found all the errors in my wiring), sure enough, I could get the motors to spin.

But one thing I found while wiring was that I couldn't always use the GPIO lines I'd intended to use. The RPi has seemingly a lot of GPIO lines -- but nearly all of the GPIO lines have other purposes, except I haven't found any good explanation of what those uses are and how to know when they're in use. I found that quite frequently, I'd try a GPIO.setup(pin, GPIO.OUT) and get "This channel is already in use". Sometimes GPIO.cleanup() helped, and sometimes it didn't. None of this stuff has much documentation, and I haven't found any IRC channel or mailing list for discussing RPi GPIO. And of course, there's no relation between the pin number on the header and the GPIO pin number. So I spent a lot of time counting breadboard rows and correlating to a printout I'd made of the RPi's GPIO socket.

Putting the circuit on a proto-board

Once I got it working, I realized how much I didn't relish the thought of ever doing it again -- like whenever I needed to unplug the motors from the Pi and use it for something else.

Fortunately, at some point I'd bought an Adafruit Pi Plate, sort of the RPi equivalent of Adafruit's Arduino ProtoShield. I love protoshields. I have a bunch of them, and I use them for all sorts of Arduino projects, so I'd bought the Pi Plate thinking it might come in handy some day. It's not quite like a protoshield, because it's expensive and heavy, loaded up with lots of pointless screw terminals. But you don't have to solder the screw terminals on; just solder the headers and you have a protoshield for your RPi on which you can put a mini breadboard and build your motor circuit.

I do wish, though, that Adafruit or someone made a simple, basic proto board PCB with headers for the Pi. No screw terminals, no extra parts, just the PCB and headers, to make it easy and cheap to swap between different RPi projects. The HobbyTronics Slice of Pi looks intriguing, but the GPIO pins it exposes don't seem to be the same ones exposed on the RPI's GPIO header. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's tried one of these.

Anyway, with the Pi Plate shield, my motor circuit looks much neater, and I can unplug it from my RPi without fear that it'll mean another half hour if I ever want to get the motors hooked up again. I did have to change some of the pin assignments yet again, because the Pi Plate doesn't expose all the GPIO pins available on the RPi header. I ended up using 25, 23, 24 for the first motor, and 17, 21, 22 for the second.

I wanted to make a circuit diagram with Fritzing, but it turns out the Fritzing I have can't import part definitions like the one for Raspberry Pi, and the current Fritzing doesn't work on Debian Wheezy. So that'll have to wait. But here's a photo of my breadboarded circuit on the Pi Plate, and a link to my motor breadboarded circuit using a cable to the GPIO.

Kevin Mark tipped me off that Fritzing is quite easy to build under Debian, if you first apt-get install qt4-qmake libqt4-dev libboost1.49-dev
I had to add one more package to Kevin's list, libqt4-sql-sqlite, or I got a lot of QSQLITE driver not loaded and other errors on the terminal, and a dialog saying "Unable to find the following 114 parts" followed by another dialog too big to fit on the screen with a list of all the missing parts.
Once those packages are installed, download the Fritzing source tarball, qmake, make, and sudo make install.

And my little car can go forward, spin around in both directions, and then reverse! Now the trick will be to find some sensors I can use with the pins remaining ...

PWM for LEDs and motors with a Raspberry Pi

I've written about how to drive small DC motors with an Arduino, in order to drive a little toy truck around. But an Arduino, while great at talking to hardware, isn't very powerful. It's easy to add simple sensors to the truck so it can stop before hitting the wall; but if I wanted to do anything complicated -- like, say, image processing with a camera -- the Arduino really isn't enough.

Enter Raspberry Pi. It isn't a super-fast processor either, but it's fast enough to run Linux, Python, and image processing packages like SimpleCV. A Raspberry-Pi driven truck would be a lot more powerful: in theory, I could make a little Mars Rover to drive around my backyard. If, that is, I could get the RPi driving the car's motors.

Raspberry Pi, sadly, has a lot of limitations as a robotics platform. It's picky about input voltages and power; it has no analog inputs, and only one serial port (which you probably want to use for a console if you're going to debug your robot reliably). But my biggest concern was that it has only one pulse-width modulation (PWM) output, while I needed two of them to control the car's two motors. It's theoretically possible to do software PWM on any pin -- but until recently, there were no libraries supporting that.

Until recently. I've been busy for the last month or two and haven't been doing much RPi experimenting. As I got back into it this week, I discovered something delightful: in the widely available python library RPi.GPIO, Software PWM is available starting with 0.5.2a.

Getting the right RPi.GPIO

Just what I'd been wanting! So I got an LED and resistor and plugged them into a breadboard. I ran a black wire from the RPi's pin 6, ground, to the short LED pin, and connected the long pin via the resistor to the RPi's pin 18 (GPIO 24) (see the RPi Low-level peripherals for the official GPIO pin diagrams).

With the LED wired up, I plugged in my serial cable, powered up the RPi with its Raspbian SD card, and connected to it with screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200. I configured the network to work on my local net and typed sudo apt-get install python-rpi.gpio to get the latest version. It got 0.5.2a-1. Hooray!

I hurried to do a test:

pi@raspberrypi:~$ sudo python
Python 2.7.3 (default, Jan 13 2013, 11:20:46) 
[GCC 4.6.3] on linux2
Type "help", "copyright", "credits" or "license" for more information.
>>> 
>>> import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
>>> GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)
>>> GPIO.setup(24, GPIO.OUT)
>>> led = GPIO.PWM(24, 100)
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module>
AttributeError: 'module' object has no attribute 'PWM'

Whoops! But Raspbian said it was the right version ... I checked again with aptitude show python-rpi.gpio -- yep, 0.5.2a-1. Hmph!

After some poking around, I discovered that help(GPIO), after printing out an interminable list of exception classes, eventually gets to this:

    VERSION = '0.5.1a'

In other words, Rapsbian is fibbing: that package that Raspbian says is version 0.5.2a-1 is actually version 0.5.1a. (This is the sort of thing that makes Raspberry Pi such a joy to work with. Yes, that's sarcasm.)

Okay. Let's try removing that bogus Raspbian package and getting it from pypi instead:

apt-get remove python-rpi.gpio
pip install --upgrade RPi.GPIO

Then I tried the same test as before. Success! And now I was able to set the LED to half brightness:

led.start(50)

I was able to brighten and dim the LED at will:

led.ChangeDutyCycle(90)
led.ChangeDutyCycle(25)

I played with it a little while longer, then cleaned up:

led.stop()
GPIO.cleanup()

If you're experimenting with RPi.GPIO's PWM, you'll want to check out this useful 2-part tutorial:

• RPi.GPIO 0.5.2a now has software PWM – How to use it
• How to use soft PWM in RPi.GPIO 0.5.2a pt 2 – led dimming and motor speed control

What about motors?

So PWM works great for LEDs. But would it drive my little robotic car?

I unplugged my LED and wired up one of the SN754410 motor drivers circuits I'd wired up for the Arduino. And it worked just as well! I was able to control the motor speed using ChangeDutyCycle().

I'll write that up separately, but I do have one caveat: GPIO.cleanup(), for some reason, sets the pin output to HIGH. So if you have your car plugged in and sitting on the ground when you run cleanup(), it will take off at full speed. I recommend testing with the car on a stand and the wheels off the ground.

Update: the motor post is up now, at Driving two DC motors with a Raspberry Pi.

Playing music or sound samples on Arduino

I've done a few experiments with playing music on an Arduino over the years -- the Arduino library has a tone() call that gives you a nice tinny monophonic "chiptunes" style noise. But for playing anything more complex, you need more processing power.

I had a silly little project in mind. I like some pink noise when I'm sleeping (in summer, I usually have a fan running). You can buy electronic devices called "sleep soothers" that have tracks of the ocean, rain, trains etc. but they often have annoying misfeatures (like foghorns or train whistles in the middle of a track). Wouldn't it be more fun to make my own, with sound samples of my choice?

Pink noise samples

Of course, I needed some sound samples, and I found a great resource: Laptop.org's list of Free sound samples. I downloaded a few sample collections that looked like they might have some nice ambient pink-noise sounds -- rain, ocean and so forth.

Some of the samples were usable right away. But others are only available at 44.1k, and the Adafruit Wave Shield, the hardware I was targeting first, will only play WAV audio at 16k. So they needed to be converted. A simple shell loop did that:

for fil in *.wav ; do
  avconv -i $fil -ar 16000 ../samples16/$fil
  echo $fil
done

Arduino hardware

There are several Arduino shields for playing sound files. The simplest (and probably cheapest) is the Adafruit Wave Shield, and that's what I started with. It comes as a kit that you solder together (an easy soldering project) and it has its own volume control and SD card reader. On the down side, it can only play .WAV files, not other formats like .MP3 or .OGG. But for my sleep soother project that was okay.

Getting basic sounds playing was easy, following Adafruit's tutorial and sample code. But for my project, I also needed some external buttons, to allow for jumping from one track to the next. I was a little confused about which pins are used by the shield, and I ended up wiring my button to one of the pins that the shield uses for talking to the SD card reader. Things didn't work at all. And then while I was fumbling with plugging/unplugging things, at some point I installed the shield onto the Arduino wrong, with the pins off by one. I'm not sure whether it was the miswired button or the off-by-one shield, but something got fried in the wave shield and it was never able to read an SD card again after that (yes, even after plugging it in properly).

I thought about ordering another Wave Shield. But I was leery -- if it's so delicate that a stray 5v signal in the wrong place can fry it permanently, how long did I expect a second one to last? Besides, I was tired of soldering things, and I happened to be putting in an Amazon order for some other things. So I ran a search and found that there was an MP3 player shield available through them, made by Seeed Studio. It even had buttons built in, so I wouldn't need any extra hardware. It was a little more expensive than the Wave shield, but it claimed to play MP3 and OGG as well as WAV, and it comes pre-assembled, no soldering needed.

The hardware arrived and looked nice. Two simple buttons plus a "multifunction" button you can press or rock left or right. I grabbed a micro SD card, put some MP3s on it, and went to Seeed's page on the Music Shield.

Hacking the Seeed library

I was a little worried when I discovered that they have three different demos there -- each of which comes with a different library, and you have to remove one set of libraries before you can try a different demo. Not a good sign.

And indeed, it wasn't. None of the demos worked at all. When I added some debug Serial.printlns, I found that it wasn't opening the SD card.

Much web searching found a couple of people saying they'd discovered that the Seeed shield only works with 2G or smaller microSD cards. Good luck finding one of those! The next day, I drove all over town looking for one, without success, and was on the verge of giving up when Dave remembered a little cheapie camera he'd bought a few years ago for taking airplane movies. It came with a microSD card. Success! It was a 2G card.

Back to trying the various demos and their incompatible libraries again. And this time, one of the demos, the first one (the one that comes with the Music v1 14.zip library), worked. I could play tracks, sequentially as they were loaded on the SD card.

Unfortunately, that wasn't what I wanted to do -- I wanted to play the same track over and over, jumping to the next track when the user presses a button. I tried the other demos. None of them worked at all.

Long story short, after struggling for the better part of a week and reverse-engineering a fair amount of the Music v1 14 library, I finally got my sketch working.

Sharing the changes

I come from the open-source world. I keep my Arduino sketches on GitHub (at least once they work well enough to be useful to anybody). So of course I wanted to share the work I'd put into fixing this library.

I had it all laid out and ready to commit, and was working on some documentation on how to use it, when I noticed the readme.txt in the library directory. It begins:

Copyright (c) 2010 Seedstudio.  All right reserved.

Pffft! So after finally getting things working, I can't share my working version of the library! What are they thinking? What on earth is the point of distributing a library for your hardware, one that you know doesn't work very well (or you wouldn't be distributing four different incompatible versions of it), and then not letting anyone fix it for you?

I posted a query in one of the many threads discussing problems with the Music Shield, asking if Seeed would consider releasing the library under a license that allowed redistribution. It's been a few weeks now, and no answer yet.

Incidentally, even posting the query wasn't easy. Seeed doesn't let you post in their forums unless you register -- and the registration process requires full name, address, and phone number! Fortunately, they have no way of knowing whether the info you give them is fake, so that's what I did.

Since I don't have permission to share the code directly, I've checked in a patch that updates their library so it can play arbitrary tracks, not just sequential ones, and can re-play the same track. It's here: Music Shield library on GitHub, along with my sample app, called play-repeat.

Conclusions

So my app is working now. Well, mostly; sometimes the volume randomly jumps in the middle of the night, which I think is a hardware glitch, but since it only happens after several hours of play, it's hard to debug.

But if you're looking for an Arduino sound project, I can't recommend either the Wave Shield or the Seeed Music Shield. The Wave Shield seems too fragile and its formats are limited, though the tutorials and support are great. And I'll certainly never buy anything from Seeed again.

If I had it to do over again, I'd spend the big bucks and buy the Sparkfun MP3 Player Shield. It's more expensive ($40) and doesn't have nice buttons like the Seeed shield, but it plays all the formats the Seeed shield does, and they offer tons of documentation and examples, including an open-source library and code contributed by users.

Rescuing a wrongly soldered box header connector

For a recent Raspberry Pi project, I decided to use the Adafruit Pi Cobbler to give me easy access to the RPi's GPIO pins.

My Cobbler arrived shortly before I had to leave for a short trip. I was planning to take my RPi with me -- but not my soldering iron. So the night before I left, I hastily soldered together the Cobbler along with a few other parts I wanted to play with. No problem -- it's an easy solder project, lots of pins but no delicate parts or complicated circuitry.

Later, far from home, I opened up my hardware hack box, set up a breadboard and started plugging in wires, following one of the tutorials mentioned below. Except -- wait, the pins didn't seem to be in the place I expected them. I quickly realized I'd soldered the ribbon cable connector on backward. Argh!

There's no way I could unsolder 26 pins all at once, even at home; but away from home, without even a soldering iron, how could I possibly recover?

(image courtesy of PANAMATIK of Wikipedia)

The ribbon cable connector is basically symmetrical, two rows of 13 pins. The connector on the cable is keyed -- it has a dingus sticking out of it that's supposed to fit into the slot in the connector's plastic box. If I could, say, cut another slot on the opposite side of the plastic box, something big enough for the ribbon cable's sticky-out dingus (sorry for the highly technical language!), I could salvage this project and play with my RPi.

I was just about to dig in with the diagonal cutter when someone on IRC suggested that I try to slide the plastic box (it turns out this is called a "box header") up off the pins, turn it around and slide it back on. They suggested that using a heat gun to soften the plastic might help.

I didn't have a heat gun where I was staying, but I did have a hairdryer. I slipped a jeweler's screwdriver under the bottom of one side of the box, levered against the circuit board to apply pressure upward, and hit it with the hairdryer. It slid a few millimeters immediately.

I switched to the other side of the box and repeated; that side obligingly slid too. About ten minutes of alternating sides and occasional blasts from the hairdryer, and the box was off! Sliding it back on was even easier. Project rescued!

(Incidentally, you may be thinking that the Cobbler is really just a way to connect the Pi's header pins to a breadboard. I could have used the backwards-soldered Cobbler and just kept track of which pins should map to which other pins. True! But all the pin numbers would have been mislabeled, and I know myself well enough to know that eventually, I would have gotten the pin mapping wrong and plugged something in to the wrong place. Having destroyed an Adafruit Wave Shield earlier that day by doing just that, connecting 5V to an I/O pin that it turned out wasn't expecting it (who knew the SD reader chip was so sensitive?), I didn't want to take the same risk with my only Raspberry Pi.)